Wine Club for Cool Kids

I am not a fan of the traditional wine club format. I was duped into joining one ages ago – not a wine farm affiliated club, just a general wine-of-the-month type. It was horrific. I could put together a better selection than the ones I received by tossing glue-covered corks at a supermarket wine shelf and taking the first ones they stick to. It’s horrendous and nearly always “good idea, bad execution”. There are many reasons why this is the case, probably mostly because of badly sourced wines or budgetary constraints; if you want to offer people 6 or 12 wines of a certain quality, then there is a certain cost associated. And if you don’t happen to like the selection, you’ve just paid a bundle for a case or two you don’t care for. Thankfully, there are those among us who have wrestled with this problem on behalf everyone who has have suffered through the annoyance of being sold awful wine in bulk. Could it be that Tank & Barrel has managed the impossible? Have they created a cool wine club?

Tank & Barrel is a concept created by Alex Brodbeck and winemaker Francois Haasbroek. They wanted to take the mostly outdated idea of a wine club and drag it into the now by making both the process and offerings appealing. They’ve transformed the monthly wine club by breaking it down to its bare bones. Membership is R300 per month and for that you get two exciting, unusual and very much niche wines delivered to your door.

At first glance, the idea of two wines seems a bit underwhelming – we’re so used to these operations selling us multiples of 6. The reasoning behind it though is quite pragmatic: when you are subscribed to a wine club delivering 6 or more wines that you don’t specifically pre-select, the odds of you being stuck with wines you don’t like are quite high. Receiving only two bottles a month means if you don’t like what you get, you only have the one bottle to deal with. On the upside, if you DO like what you receive and you want to buy more, you can order as many as your heart desires directly from T&B. Win. Win.

In short, it’s an efficient monthly wine exploration service offering easy discovery of new wines and the anticipation of a new surprise each month.

The wines that feature in the club are definitely more off the beaten track than mainstream. Not entirely unknown or unacclaimed, of course, but not always the type of vino that you’ll pick up at your local supermarket liquor shop. They don’t stick religiously to the R150 per bottle average – some packs are made up of two wines worth a tad more than R300. The R150 per bottle price point is one where you often find a multitude of exciting wines. The T&B monthly selections so far have included (to name a few) Duncan Savage White, The Foundry Grenache Blanc, Vuurberg White, Overgaauw Cape Vintage Port AND Touriga Nacional, Fram Pinotage and Keermont Terrasse.

I was generously sent a “test box” (containing the Keermont Terrasse and the Fram Pinotage) to see if I – with my deeply ingrained dislike of wine clubs – would be sold on the idea of this one. Hand on heart: I am converted. Each month’s wines come with fantastic tasting notes, dripping with wit and information. An infographic styled image in the middle tells you all you need to know about the wine, including what it smells like, whether to decant or not, ideal pairings and serving temperature, what it looks like and where it’s from. Paragraphs dotted around it provide some extra info on the wine, the winemaking, the winemaker, region and soils and a very short and sweet “What WE think (Why we picked it)”. There’s also a superb Bad Pairing suggestion: for the Keermont it was “Don’t pair with people who think white wine can’t age” and for the Fram it read: “Creme Soda – Why spoil the world’s most noble drink with wine?”. Each delivery also has a little blurb on a wine-related topic, just to get you thinking about wine some more.

Tank & Barrel is, in some ways, still a work in progres. Their ‘To Do’ list for the future includes a new website, eCommerce and maybe even an app to snap together and streamline the whole thing. T&B as it is today is definitely a must-try. Ingeniously selected wines with brilliantly informative and entertaining tasting notes and the option of buying your favourites directly from them is an unconventional and convenient; it’s the most innovative way to discover new wine that I’ve come across.

Membership is R300 per month and (for now) you sign up for 6 months with a once-off payment of R1800. As the club grows, monthly payment options are likely to follow.

For more information (or to sign up!) you can find them on Facebook or check out their website.

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According to those in the know, premiumisation is not only a thing but a global trend. Brands and services aim to offer a range of products at different price points, often aimed at different consumers. The ever-present lookout for new ways to add more value is everywhere. It’s particularly prevalent in the wine industry, with both large-scale producers and small to medium wineries setting out their offerings with labels like entry-level, premium, reserve etc. Some seem to get it quite wrong at times, asking premium (and above) prices for wines that are mediocre at best. Whether or not premiumisation was a goal in mind during creation of The Mentors range, they’ve very much gotten it right.

In 2006, The Mentors range was created by KWV with the purpose of allowing the winemakers free reign in terms of creativity, experimentation and sourcing the best grapes from the best vineyards. It’s no small task to create wines that are earmarked to be the flagship products for a company such as KWV but the team behind The Mentors have come out swinging and the results are nothing less than spectacular.

If it’s quality you’re concerned with, the production of The Mentors ticks all the boxes one would expect: stringent selection of vineyards and grapes, only the ‘best of the best’ wines get bottled and even then, quantities are limited. If the wines don’t reach the high quality standards, it simply doesn’t get released. For example, The Mentors Grenache Blanc was last released in 2011  and was only given the green light again this year with release of the 2014 vintage. They simply don’t mess about: if it’s not good enough, it’s not going out.

Putting aside the economics of cost, production and any other factors that influence the decision to release a wine or not, I respect the philosophy behind this range immensely and (in my opinion, at least) it pays dividends. I have not yet encountered a wine from the range that I have not enjoyed or adored. A brand offering such consistent quality and innovation is not to be sniffed at. You should rather be sniffing their wines.

I’m not going to say much about the wines because they very much speak for themselves. Also, if I started, this post would become very long, very quickly. I will mention that I was enamoured by the new release Grenache Blanc 2014, citrus and apple notes greet your nose and the wine itself is fresh with a clean but creamy lingering palate. I would not recommend sharing this with anyone – it’s just too good.

So because I love The Mentors and because the good people at KWV love sharing their very best with wine lovers everywhere, I have a mixed case (valued at R1290) of brand new release The Mentors wines to give away. The case consists of the following wines:

Grenache Blanc 2014
Sauvignon Blanc – Elim 2014
Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2014
Orchestra 2013
Canvas 2013
Shiraz 2013

To enter, simply comment below and tell me which great individual (historic figure, musician, artist – either still with us or someone who has already shuffled off this mortal coil) you would want to share a bottle of The Mentors with and why? Be creative, describe how you see it happening in your mind’s eye. Interesting answers may or may not count more than shorter ones. *ahem*

For additional entries, retweet the link to the competition with the #MeetGreatness or use the tweet below:

Tell @WeAreIncogvino how you would like to #MeetGreatness with @KWVwines The Mentors and you could win. https://incogvino.co.za/?p=562

Winners will be drawn and announced on Monday 13 July.

*** Competition is now closed. Congratulations to Lize Hartley for the winning comment!***

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2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Report

It’s often said that Cab is King in Stellenbosch, and that the area is generally considered “Cabernet Country”. I’ve heard winemakers and others in industry mumble the sentiment that if you can’t make a decent Cabernet Sauvignon in Stellenbosch, you have no business being a winemaker. Perhaps a harsh sentiment, but it rings true in many ways. South African wine is going in many different and exciting directions, but perhaps we must be wary of spreading ourselves too thin in a cultivar sense? Of course diversifying and experimenting is great in terms of new offerings and discovering what is possible (and equally, what is not) but there is also no sense in moving rapidly away from our strengths – of which Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely one. The annual Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report take a good look at what’s potting with local Cab, and this year continued the showcasing of the top specimens.

The #CabReport2015 was revealed during a casual ceremony at Burrata on Wednesday afternoon. Christian kicked off the proceedings with an introduction and thanked Derek Prout-Jones (thereafter referred to as DPJ) for sponsoring the 2015 report. He went on to explain that for the 2015 report, they moved away from the 20-point/5 star rating system and used the (internationally more standard) 100-point system. They also did away with the Top 10 and instead awarded all wines scoring 90 points and higher a certificate.

DPJ also shared a few thoughts with those gathered. He underlined the importance of the Cab Report, mostly in terms of what it does to raise consumer awareness and – as a result – drive sales, ultimately expanding the wine-drinking footprint. This is specifically important for the cultivar as it’s arguably one of SA’s most important – some would claim it’s our most iconic grape.

The approach to the report as follows (quoted directly from the report):

“The tasting is capped at 60 wines, partly consisting of examples which have fared well in recent local or international competition and partly from those producers I consider to be the best in their field even if somewhat low profile. While other bigger tastings can have a useful talent spotting function, the intention here is very much to do good by what might be called the seeded players, the finite line-up in particular intended to avoid the perils of palate fatigue. The judging panel was chaired by myself – Christian Eedes – and further consisted of two trusted colleagues, namely Roland Peens and James Pietersen, both of Wine Cellar, a Cape Town firm which brokers and cellars fine wine. We tasted blind, scoring done according to the 100-point system.”

If Cabernet is your game, you will want to take note of this report. And to see the consistency with which many of these producers perform, a gander at the report of the previous 3 years illustrates their continuously excellent performance brilliantly – names like Le Riche, Graham Beck, Warwick, de Trafford and Spier (to name but a few) keep popping up in and around the Top 10 and scored 90+ in the 2015 report. It’s a safe assumption to make that these are the winemakers and estates leading the way to top SA Cabernet. If you’re  serious about Cab Sauv, do yourself a favour and page through all the reports to spot the trends and have a squizz of where your favourites rank. All previous years’ reports are available on the WineMag.co.za site.

A special treat was having all the 90+ pointers available for tasting. My favourites – in no particular order – were the Vergelegen V 2011 (unreleased) which is still preposterously young but will shape to be a fantastic number in years to come, the de Trafford 2012 which seemed to me the most elegant and beautiful wine of them all and the Warwick Blue Lady 2012. Warwick also went one step further and had a 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon to taste alongside the Blue Lady. It was exquisite, aged beautifully but with enough life in her to go a few more years yet.

You can read the full 2015 report here. Congratulations to Christian on his valuable contribution. While no single report or document is likely to ever be considered comprehensive (for a given value of comprehensive) by everyone who reads it, the fact that we have these inputs available to the public goes a long way to building and promoting wine in general.

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Nederburg Estate, Paarl

South African wine farms are diverse with many offering not just wine, but experiences, pairings and world-class gastronomic experiences.  Diversity aside, there is a golden thread that runs through and binds many of our most well-known estates: history. Since the humble beginnings of our country as a halfway station between Europe and India, wine has been an established part of that history. Groot Constantia, Vergelegen, Blaauwklippen, Muratie, Alto (to name a few) were all established within the first century of the Dutch setting foot in the Cape. In 1791, Nederburg was bought by Philippus Bernardus Wolvaardt for 5600 guilders and the estate took its place in SA wine history. And this historical (and oenological) gem is hiding in plain sight.

As with most historic places, a visit to the estate is by far the best way to appreciate the heritage. Walking into the Nederburg tasting room, the history of the farm is set out in panels with beautiful images bringing to life the rich past of the estate. There is also a central display dedicated to their Heritage Heroes, a tribute to the owners and winemasters of the farm, incredible people with incredible stories that are represented by incredible wines.

The Heritage Heroes range consists of five wines. The Anchorman Chenin Blanc represents the first owner and winemaster of the estate, Philippus Wolvaardt, who had the vision and passion to create and establish Nederburg, paving the way for the estate we know today. The Brewmaster (Bordeaux blend) is a tribute to Johannes Graue, who co-owned a brewery in Germany before moving to South Africa to play his part in revolutionising the wine industry through clonal experiments and his attention to improving source material for the vineyards. The Young Airhawk Sauvignon Blanc commemorates Johan Graue’s son, Arnold. Arnold was known for his brilliance in continuing to improve winemaking and viticulture techniques but he died tragically in an a light aircraft crash at the age of 29. After the death of his son, Graue was devastated. He nearly quit the farm, but instead opted to go to Germany and bring back the next winemaster: Günther Brözel. Known for whizzing around the farm on his 250cc motorcycle, a fitting name for the wine to honour him is the Motorcycle Marvel (Rhône blend). The last wine to be released in the series was The Beautiful Lady (Gewürtztraminer), remembering Graue’s wife Ilse, who played an important part in making the estate what it is today. A beautiful wine for a beautiful lady.

Nederburg is one of the Distell brand homes and offers a number of wine ranges, suiting every taste and budget. These include the Foundation range, 5600,  Winemaster’s Reserve, Manor House, Heritage Heroes and Ingenuity. The tasting room offers tastings of the different ranges as well as a “Which wine, which cheese” tasting with gorgeous locally sourced goats cheeses. The Manor House is home to The Red Table restaurant, bistro style fare with jaw-dropping views of the estate.

Tasting through the entire range offered at Nederburg is quite a task, so we skipped the Foundation and 5600 range as well as the Baronne and the Duet (not because of snobbish tendencies but because I’m very familiar with the ranges and wanted to invest time in some of the unknown wines). We ended up tasting 15 wines and I won’t prattle on with a review and overview of each wine, but the ones worth stocking up on include:

• Young Airhawk Sauvignon Blanc – Slightly wooded, zesty with mineral undertones and a smooth finish.
• The Beautiful Lady – Without a doubt, my favourite wine of the day. Inviting, engaging and beautiful and a gentle sweetness on the palate.
• Motorcycle Marvel – Silky, smooth tannins with good structure. Hit of acidity highlights fruit in the wine. Great summer red.
• The Brewmaster – Nicely wooded, complex with dark fruit and savoury notes. A warm, winter wine which would go well with stews, especially those of the French persuasion
• Edelrood (Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend) – Easy drinking, juicy wine. Pine needles, eucalyptus hints from the Cab with great softness from the Merlot.  Great “standby” wine for unexpected braais or pizza evenings. 
• Winemaster’s Reserve Chardonnay – Straightforward. Honey tones on the nose, unassuming, middle-of-the-road Chardonnay. Not overly wooded, not overly fruity.

• Wines, wines and more wines.

  Ingenuity White – 8 varietal blend (Sauvignon Blanc led, with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Viognier, Semillon and Verdelho). A serious white wine. Rich, creamy finish with Riesling, Gewürtz and even the Viognier coming through on the nose. The 2013 is fantastically balanced, with the varietals not fighting each other in the bottle but rather working together to complement.

• Manor House Sauvignon Blanc – If you like green pepper Sauvignon Blanc, this one is for you. Chill as much as you dare and set it down by the pool to make the hot summer bearable.

To conclude, permit me a little waffle about perceptions. Nederburg is part of Distell and the Boutique-ONLY wine crowd will undoubtedly sniff and grumble at the thought of quaffing anything produced by “big corporate”.  This attitude irks me no end as I am very familiar with many of the Distell brands and I know the quality that can be found in their products. Yes, it’s a massive company. Yes, it produces hundreds of products, some more “commercially accessible” shall we say, than others. It may not have the intimate, boutique-appeal that some farms champion and it may be far from a “hidden gem” but Nederburg caters for nearly all tastes. From the eternally dependable, staple of my student days Baronne (which I can still happily pick up at any wine shop and know exactly what I’m getting – there’s something to be said for consistency!) to the Heritage Heroes range through to the Ingenuity, Noble Late Harvest and the Edelkeur, Nederburg offers a little bit of everything for everyone.

The importance of heritage, history and passion for wine is also evident not only from the Nederburg story, but from each wine produced today. Many estates have the history and the heritage sites, but few make it as part of their every day story as Nederburg, where the essence of the winemasters echoes still in every bottle.

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Your wine shopping list from the Old Mutual Trophy Tasting

In no particular order, here are the SuperFAN Picks from the 2014 Old Mutual Trophy Tasting.

SuperFAN Linda Kemp

• De Grendel Shiraz (in my opinion better than the trophy-winning Super Single Vineyards Mount Sutherland Syrah – try saying that 4 times quickly)
• De Krans 2011 Vintage Reserve Port (absolutely amazing stuff)
• Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon
• Nederburg Brew Master Bordeaux Blend
• Nederburg Eminence Dessert Wine
• Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz
• Spier 21 Gables Pinotage
• Delaire Graff Sauvignon Blanc
• Highlands Road Sauvignon Blanc (oaked museum class, really interesting flavours)
• Noble Hill Viognier
• Woolworths The Hutton (I think this is a Spier wine made for Woolworths)

Splurge:

• Steenberg Magna Carta (Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend, absolutely amazing but at more than R400 per bottle)
• Nederburg Private Bin R172 Pinotage 2010 (this only won silver but I absolutely loved it. R249 per bottle)

SuperFAN Stephen Brierly

• Stellenrust Chenin Blanc
• Delaire Graaf Sauvignon Blanc

SuperFAN Brian Arentsen (Bargainstein)

• Baleia Bay Chardonnay (Gold Medal winning , judiciously wooded, undoubted find of the show and at just R49 a bottle through Makro – Bargainstein filled his boots!)

There you have it, get shopping!

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One of the first wine farms to be established in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, Bouchard Finlayson has become synonymous with the production of outstanding Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaker Peter Finlayson remembers starting to make wine there before it was the buzzing wine route of today. Mostly dirt roads and largely underdeveloped for viticulture, it became apparent that the area had the ideal soil for vineyards. 

As we sat down to begin the tasting, a glance at the tasting sheet revealed a flighted tasting of four wines, all different vintages, with a Hamilton Russel Sauvignon Blanc and an Australian Chardonnay thrown in for good measure.

The first flight was three vintages of the Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer, a Riesling-based blend, with Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. The make-up of the blend is vintage dependant. According to Peter, wine blending is like a Rubix cube. He also mentioned the advantage of smaller wineries, not being so limited with regards to time restraints as larger operations often are.

We tasted the 1998, 2003 and 2012. The 1998 had been the last vintage to be hand bottled, possibly contributing to it ageing exceptionally well. Peter refers to it as a star performer and it’s not difficult to see why. Softly aged, straw on the nose and a fresh, crisp acidity one would expect from a young wine. The 2012 vintage was the first non-French wine to be sold at the Moulin Rouge. 

The next flight was Sauvignon Blanc, including the Bouchard Finlayson 2006, the Reserve 2010 and the Hamilton Russell Ashbourne 2006. Sauvignon Blanc is usually consumed within 18 months, but there is no reason for it not to keep, as it can age quite well. 

The third flight was what I was eagerly awaiting all evening; the showstoppers as far as I am concerned: Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir.  Not considered a typical Pinot Noir in the classical sense, but then very few people will ever have the opportunity to taste a Grand Crux Pinot Noir. This will do quite nicely as a replacement. “A white wine grape variety that only makes red wine under certain conditions” – Peter Finlayson on Pinot Noir. 

The 2000, 2009 and 2010 vintages were on offer. It was nearly impossible to choose a favourite. The 2000 was a work of art, elegant tannins and overall balance that can make grown men weep. The 2010 (current release) was slightly meatier and ripe but the 2009 was positively infatuating, with fine, balanced tannins, fruit and the slightest hint of jamminess that doesn’t detract but rather adds to the wine.

Rather unusually, we ended off with the Chardonnay flight. A 2004 Seppelt Jaluka from Australia, the 2004 BF Missionvale and the 2003 BF Crocodile’s Lair. The Australian offering had aged well, even with a screw top and being only very lightly wooded. The Missionvale showed a gorgeous amber colour, rich and dreamy. The Crocodile’s Lair took the cake with a caramel and toffee nose, smooth as velvet and perfectly drinkable. While the Pinot Noir has my eternal love and devotion, the Chardonnay seduced me into an delicious tryst, one I would gladly fall into again and again and again…

The marvellous wines were complemented excellently by tapas dishes, prepared by Chef Oliver Cattermole and his team. Special thanks to Peter Finlayson for hosting a marvellous tasting and Janie van der Spuy and Five Star PR for inviting us.

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The Muse?

It has been a while since I have posted to my blog, as I have been busy setting up a property valuation company. I guess this will be a good time to punt such, so if you require a property valuation, be it a wine farm, commercial or residential property, visit: www.valuetec.co.za! (Editor – SHAMELESS self promotion!)

All I needed was a little inspiration to get back into the swing of things and Bouchard Finlayson, which I have now dubbed my Muse, did exactly that!

I attended a Bouchard Finlayson tasting held at Great Domaines in Johannesburg, which was superbly presented by Jessica Saurwein. It was an enjoyable evening with delicious canapes and humorous banter about smoked chicken, or should I say gerokte kiep, to be more precise

The entire flight consisting of numerous Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay wines were exceptional. Scores were high and characters of the wines between the 2005, 2007 & 2009 vintages were varied.

It was extremely interesting to experience, that although the wine making style remained unchanged over the aforementioned vintages, the changing annual climatic conditions influenced the characteristics of the wines with great finesse, from green and fresh to fruity and complex.

I guess you could say the lady in the photo above, visually describes the flavours of the wines to a T – elegant, impressionable and clean with a great depth of character.

As difficult as it is to chose, my favourites of the night were:
2005 Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc
2005 Bouchard Finlayson Sans Barrique Chardonnay (unwooded)
2009 Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay
2005 Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale Chardonnay
So hopefully the inspiration continues and you will be hearing from me more often!

Until next time… Cheers!

Ricardo Gouveia is The Wine Oak and the Oke likes wine! His blog reveals his wine experiences, from wine Reviews, tastings, events, wine-Making, South African wine & related regions, interesting facts, wine courses and MORE! Follow The Wine Oak on Twitter or visit his blog, www.thewineoak.com.

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The previous vintage, the Eagles Nest Shiraz 2009

Nestled in the historical Constantia wine valley is the Eagle’s Nest estate. Purchased by the Mylrea family in 1984, the farm was nearly destroyed by the devastating fires that tore through the Cape in 2000. The historical buildings were spared from the destruction and in rebuilding the farm it was decided to plant varietals that are best suited to the terroir and climate of the valley.

This decision, combined with the non-traditional styles used by the winemaker, has proven successful. Of the 38 ha farm, only 14 ha is planted with vineyards. The main varieties are Shiraz, Viognier and Merlot. The varied soil types on the estate offer the ideal conditions for each varietal and the cool breezes that blow in from False Bay ensure enough cooling on hot afternoons.

As a rule, awards and accolades rarely influence my choice of wine. The awards and accolades bestowed upon the Eagle’s Nest Shiraz are, however, all justified. 5-star Platter ratings, gold medals and trophies everywhere, each and every one well-deserved.

The Shiraz has a very cool climate character, white pepper tones structured with red berries and dark fruits, rounded off with mocha and violets. Soft, gentle tannins impart the wine with a smoothness second to none.

Despite it’s relatively young age, this Shiraz is very drinkable right now but has great aging potential given it’s solid profile and fine tannin structure.

The estate also offers a Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot and a red blend, the Verreaux. Eagle’s Nest estate also supports the Western Cape Raptor Research Programme, promoting the awareness and conservation of the Verreaux’s Eagle.

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A confession. Until recently, I have never really known Pinot Noir. I knew it as a cultivar. I knew it was quite a light, red wine. I knew it was popular in other parts of the world. Yet I had never truly known it to be popular here. I must have encountered it in tastings over the years, but none so memorable as to stand out or encourage me to pursue this slightly unusual varietal.

The mystery of Pinot…

I have, I fear, been missing out.

A chance discussion with friends brought up the topic of this underrated cultivar, with one friend in particular waxing lyrical, calling it a ‘seductive mistress’. I was intrigued. My affections have moved, as they do, from cultivar to cultivar over the years. Merlot was my first love, whereafter Shiraz ripped me away for a whirlwind but short-lived relationship. Cabernet is the patient, trustworthy lover always ready to take me back. And I have ongoing romances with complex Sauvignon Blancs and rich, decadent Chardonnays, often interrupted by exotic dalliances with Malbec, Grenache and Mourvédre.

But Pinot Noir. She seemed so…unremarkable.

Cue last week, when I rounded up 5 bottles and an equal number of friends, convinced to delve deeper into this mysterious wine that has been off my radar for so long. I did some research, considered my budgetary constraints and picked a selection that would hopefully cover a range of different styles and tastes. I used my friends to crowd-source some opinions and the “score” out of 5 indicates how many of us would choose to purchase this wine in future.

Note: I won’t bore your with technical details about Pinot Noir as a cultivar. If you are totally unfamiliar with it, all you need to know is that the berries are quite small and have a very thin skin, making a very light-coloured wine, usually with very little tannins. The hue and clarity is near that of a rosé, perhaps slightly darker, and even more so when wooded. In South Africa, the best Pinot Noirs generally come from the Hemel-and-Aarde Valley as well as Elgin, with the cooler climates suiting the cultivar down to the ground.

First up was the Haute Cabriére Unwooded Pinot Noir 2011 (R91). Remarkably light, only slightly darker in colour than an average rosé. Fresh red berries all over the place, like biting into a ripe cherry, thought the fruity fragrances don’t quite translate to the tongue. Gloriously light. A wine for summer days. Served chilled with salads, pastas and even a light braai. 4/6

We moved on to the Felicité from Newton Johnson Family 2012 (R87). Sweet, sweet nose with more fruity red berries. More complex than the Haute Cabriére, this wine could work well with pairings. 14% alcohol seems high but is masked very well by the innate complexity in the wine. Consensus was that it might be even better if left to age for 2 years. 2/6

Arguably the favourite for the day turned out to be Mr. P from Iona 2012. A description from the table was “it’s like it has an under-wire, it gives it support and shape”. Deep cherry both on the nose and the tongue, with a hint of spice. Perfectly rounded from ageing in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill barrels. An unequivocal 6/6

After breaking for lunch, we approached the slightly more serious candidates. The David Finlayson 2012: Small Batch Series (R125) showed bursts of strawberry, with a touch of vanilla (almost caramel) flavours. Perfectly quaffable now, but this one should age incredibly well. 4/6

We ended off with the Waterford Pinot Noir 2011. This one fell a bit flat. Darker fruits and berries emanate from the glass, but the high tannins cause it to fall flat on the palate. Possibly ageing will curb the effect and soften it up a bit. Not a bad wine, but definitely more for pairings than general consumption. 1/6

The wines explored here seem to be a good way to introduce oneself to this marvelous cultivar. Tastes, as always, differ greatly. And the variety of Pinot Noir available is as extensive as it is diverse. She’s not everyone’s cup of vino. But if she is, you’ll never shake her. I can testify to that.

If you want to continue your own Pinot Noir education, I would recommend the following wines:

• Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak Pinot Noir (R297)

• Creation Pinot Noir 2012 (R189)

• Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2010 (R317)

• Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2011 (R255)

• Paradyskloof (Vriesenhof) Pinot Noir 2011 (R122)

• Vriesenhof Pinot Noir 2010 (R254)

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